Drywall Solution

How to Finish Drywall: 18 Steps to Smooth Joints

How to Finish Drywall: 18 Steps to Smooth Joints

There are few home improvement tasks greeted with more dread than finishing drywall. If you're like most people, you hope that you've already done your last finishing job. Unfortunately, if you enjoy working on your home, you are bound to be confronted by this task again. So it's worth your while to check out the tips and techniques we discuss here.

Before You Begin

The selection of tools we show here are not the only ones that work. Some people prefer wider drywall knives. Regardless of your preference, be sure that all the knife blades are very flexible. Holding the handle and the blade, you should be able to easily flex the blade between your thumbs.

Your selection of compound is just as important as your selection of tools. Compound is available in two types. One is called a setting compound and cures by a chemical reaction. The other is a drying compound that hardens through evaporation. The latter is available in a powder or ready-mixed version, but for most people the ready-mixed product is far more convenient. This is what we used.

You also have a choice when it comes to joint tape, between paper tape and self-sticking fiberglass mesh tape. The great advantage of the fiberglass tape is that it eliminates the need for the first coat of compound--and that's a big deal. But tape manufacturers say the fiberglass product should be used only with setting compounds, not with drying ones. In our opinion, the difficulties of working with a setting compound outweigh the advantage of using the fiberglass tape.

One last tip: If you buy your taping compound in 5-gal. pails, which is what we did, be sure to buy an opening tool. It costs about $3; opening these pails without one is very frustrating.

What You'll Need

Tools: 5-, 8- and 10-in. flexible drywall-taping knives, joint compound pan, bucket-opening tool, electric drill, mixing paddle, respirator

Materials: Premixed all-purpose joint compound, paper joint tape, 180- or 220-grit sandpaper, drywall screws, corner bead

Getting Started

There are probably as many approaches to the finishing process as there are finishers. But a few rules of thumb are appropriate for beginners. First, always keep your knives as clean as possible. This means wiping off the excess compound on the edge of the pan after each pass with the knife. Second, never mix dried compound into fresh compound. Even the smallest piece of dried debris will leave a messy gouge in the finished surface. If dried compound does find its way into your pan or pail, remove it immediately. Finally, remember that the surface of the compound will only be as smooth as the stroke you use to apply it. As you begin applying compound, make a concerted effort to lengthen your strokes. Keep the knife aligned with the direction of the joint. Until you get the knack, compound will certainly squeeze off the knife and fall to the floor. But by loading the knife with less compound, you can minimize the mess.

Begin the job by working on the butt joints (joints that occur on the ends of the drywall sheets). Follow this by working the tapered joints (those along the edges). Last, do the inside and then the outside corners. Keep in mind that the inside corners have to be done in two steps, because you can work on only one side of the joint at a time. If you try to finish both sides at once, your knife will foul the first side while you work on the second side of the corner.

Butt and Tapered Joints

Begin work by mixing the joint compound (1). Although this isn't absolutely necessary with ready-mixed compounds, it does smooth out the compound and make it easier to apply. Starting at a butt joint, load up a 5-in. knife, making sure its corners are free of compound (2), and apply the compound starting at one end of the joint (3). Work as smoothly as you can, reloading the knife when you run out.

Then, clean off the knife on the side of the pan and smooth the entire joint in one stroke. Don't press so hard that you remove all of the compound. If you scrape the surface clean in an area, reapply compound, because the paper tape won't stick to the paper-covered drywall without compound. Once the compound is smooth, cut a piece of joint tape to length and embed it in the compound using your fingers (4). Align the middle of the tape directly over the middle of the butt joint.

With a 5-in. knife, smooth the tape into the compound and wipe off any excess that squeezes out. As you do this, the tape will be covered by a very thin layer of compound. After a little practice, you should be able to get a relatively smooth surface with the tape straight and flat.

Once the tape is in place and smoothed, cover the entire joint with more compound, this time using an 8-in. knife (5). Use the same techniques described for the 5-in. knife. Note that some drywall installers find it easier to let the joint compound dry overnight at this stage, before applying the second coat with the 8-in. knife.

After the butt joints are taped smooth, move on to the tapered joints. These joints are easier to finish because there's a depression formed into the long edges of the drywall panels. First, fill the joint with compound using a 5-in. knife (6).

Then, embed the tape with your fingers (7) and smooth it into place with the 5-in. knife. Last, finish up the first coat by applying compound with an 8-in. knife (8). Cover the fastener heads with a wide stripe of compound (9), and scrape off the excess.

Certainly one of the most difficult joints is a ceiling butt joint. In the first place, you are working over your head, which is always awkward. And second, because the butt joint has no tapered edges to hold the compound, a lot of it is liable to fall on the floor--and you--as you work. To start such a joint, load your knife as before and press it against the ceiling. Slowly move along the joint with a smooth stroke, progressively flattening the knife as you move (10). This will help prevent compound from falling and will yield a smoother surface.

Corner Joints

To start an inside joint, first load a 5-in. knife on one corner only (11) and then apply the compound to one wall with a smooth, steady stroke (12). By working in this fashion, you will limit the compound that squeezes out.

Then, load the other corner of the knife and coat the other side of the joint (13). You are bound to foul the first side when you coat the second, but try to avoid this as much as possible.

Next, cut a piece of tape to length and fold it down the middle (14). Carefully push the tape into the joint with your fingers (15). Make sure that the fold in the paper lines up with the corner of the joint. Embed the tape on one side of the joint at a time using a 5-in. knife (16). Don't bear down hard. Maintain steady, even pressure on the knife and do your best to keep the surface smooth. Once the excess compound has been removed from both sides, apply a topcoat to one side of the joint using an 8-in. knife.

The inside corners along the ceiling are finished in the same way. When those are complete, move on to any outside wall corners. The first step in finishing these is to attach metal corner bead to the joint with drywall screws or nails (17). Then, using an 8-in. knife, fill the area over the corner bead with compound (18). Work on one side of the corner first and then finish the other.

At this point, you should return to complete the other side of all the inside corners, and then you'll be done with your first coat of compound. Once everything is dry, scrape off any ridges or chunks of dried compound with your 5-in. knife. Then, use a 10-in. knife to apply a second coat of compound. Follow the same joint sequence you used for the first coat.

Repeat the whole process for the third coat, using the 10-in. knife, and when this coat is dry, sand the surface with 180- or 220-grit paper. Be sure to wear a respirator, not just a dust mask, and goggles when sanding.

Source : https://www.popularmechanics.com

Tips Interior

Removing Soggy Drywall in 8 Not-So-Easy Steps

Removing Soggy Drywall in 8 Not-So-Easy Steps

Safety comes first for a flood-damaged home. But once your house has been disconnected from the grid and the floodwaters are gone, one of the first big projects will be to remove waterlogged drywall. Here are the basics.

Step One: Mark

The water line (the highest point that floodwaters reached) will be evident on the drywall. Mark a cut line six to 12 inches above that using either a laser level or marking around the room at a uniform height above the floor. Then snap a chalk line. This might seem unnecessarily fussy at this point when all you're trying to do is remove soggy drywall to ventilate the wall. But a neat job now will greatly speed the installation of replacement drywall.

Step Two: Place Tarps

Place a tarp at the base of the wall to catch debris. The tarp is a smooth surface that will keep the damaged area cleaner and make it easier to scoop debris off the floor.

Step Three: Cut

Cut along the line with a sharp utility knife.

Step Four: Puncture

Take a framing hammer and knock a hole in the drywall that will allow you to reach through to the other side. Make sure you do this between the studs, and below the cutline so that you're damaging the drywall that you're going to remove anyway.

Step Five: Remove and Test

First, remove the plates from your electrical outlets and pry off baseboard trim. Next, wearing gloves, reach into the hand hole and pull the drywall away from the studs. The first couple of bays will be difficult. Once you've opened a large area, use a flat bar, hammer, or a flat-nosed shovel to pry the drywall away from the studs.

While you're doing this, check for dampness on the exterior walls. Get your hand in the insulation. Your goal here is to remove the drywall up to the point where the insulation is dry, so that anything that gets damp is replaced. So if the insulation still feels wet where you made your first cut line, make another test cut higher up the wall.

NOTE: Removal of electrical cable, outlets, and outlet boxes (and their replacement) should be left to a licensed electrician.

Step Six: Transport

Transport the debris outside. The ideal is that you already have a Dumpster, dump truck, or garbage hauler so that you won't have to remove the debris twice. If that's not possible, pile the debris on the ground and cover it with a tarp to keep it from getting wetter and heavier. Weigh the tarp down or stake it in place do it doesn't blow away.

Remember that drywall is heavy—especially waterlogged drywall. But there are several ways to move it. One is to slide it inside a tarp. Large chunks can also be placed in a wheelbarrow or dropped into a plastic garbage can, which you can slide out of the house or carry on a hand truck.

Whatever you do, figure out debris transport before you cut your first piece of drywall and you'll have an easier time overall.

Step Seven: Dispose of the Remainder

Cut away soggy fiberglass insulation and stuff it into contractor trash bags. Remove drywall screws by backing them out or snapping them off. Same goes for drywall nails.

Step Eight: Ventilate

Fans speed evaporation and reduce the chance of condensation forming inside walls and the formation of mold.

Post-Flood Installation

To put your walls back together after the flood, you'll need to have an electrician replace outlets and wiring, and perhaps the receptacle boxes as well. At PM, it's always been our view that a homeowner who does his or her homework is competent to do basic electrical work, but flood damage is a special case. Flood-damaged electrical materials should be replaced by a pro, who can also evaluate the home's grounding and bonding system. After that's done, you can move on to replacing the insulation you cut out and hanging new drywall.

To do that, cut each piece of replacement insulation so that it firmly butts against the piece above. Staple it in place. Next, cut the replacement piece of drywall and screw it to the studs. Use one screw on each side of the joint (that is, one screw in the new drywall and one screw on the older piece of drywall above). Spread taping compound on the seam and embed paper tape in the compound. Properly embedded paper tape is strong and easy to apply. Strike off excess drywall compound with a 6 in. knife and let the compound dry. Sand off ridges and bumps before applying the next layers of compound.

Source: https://www.popularmechanics.com

Dry Wall Solution Wall and Ceiling

5 Fixes for Damaged Drywall

5 Fixes for Damaged Drywall

The interior walls and ceilings of most homes are covered with gypsum wallboard, which is commonly known as drywall. Over time, these surfaces inevitably get holes, cracks, and dents—and they must be repaired before you can apply a fresh coat of paint. Fortunately, all you need are some basic hand tools, the right materials, and a few tricks of the trade.

Nail Pops

Drywall is often fastened to wall studs and ceiling joists with drywall nails, which have long, thin shanks and large, round heads. Occasionally those nails will lose their grip and pop through the surface. There are many reasons why nails pop, but it usually happens when the wood framing shrinks, the house settles, or the nails aren't driven solidly into the center of the stud or joist. Regardless of the reason, the repair is the same (and don't try to simply hammer it back in; there's no guarantee it won't pop back out).

Start by using pliers to yank the popped nail. Next, locate the exact center of the stud or joist. You can use an electronic stud finder, or a hammer and a finishing nail. For the latter, drive the finishing nail through the drywall until you pinpoint each edge of the stud or joist.

Now use a cordless drill/driver to drive two 1-5/8-inch coarse-thread drywall screws into the center of the stud or joist. Position one screw about 1 inch above the old nail hole and the other an inch below. Drive the screws below the surface, but try not to puncture the drywall's paper face.

Next, use a 4-inch drywall knife to apply a thin coat of joint compound over the repaired area. Allow the compound to dry overnight, then sand it smooth with 120-grit sandpaper. Apply a second coat of compound, but this time use a 6-inch knife and spread the compound several inches beyond the first coat. Once that coat is dry, sand the area, then prime and paint.

Your drywall might have been fastened with screws rather than nails to begin with, but screws can pop through the surface, too. Use the same fix if that happens.

Small Holes

You swing open a door in your home with a bit too much gusto and wham—the doorknob punches through the wall. The easiest way to repair this hole is to buy a stick-on repair plate. Sold at most hardware stores, these round, hard-plastic plates have an adhesive backing. Simply peel off the protective backing and stick the plate to the wall over the hole. Then, paint the plate to match the wall.

To repair other small holes, try this quick fix: Cut a strip of half-inch or thicker plywood and make it slightly narrower than the hole diameter and about 4 inches longer than the hole diameter. Then tie a string around the center of the strip and slide the plywood through the hole. By pulling on the string, you'll be able to hold the plywood strip flat against the backside of the drywall where you wouldn't normally be able to reach.

On opposite sides of the hole, drive a 1-5/8-inch drywall screw through the drywall and into the plywood strip. Remove the string, then cut a round piece of drywall to fit the hole. Smear joint compound onto the back of the round patch and press it into the hole. Check to be sure the patch is flush with the surrounding wall surface. If it's not, remove the patch and carefully peel off the paper backing, reducing its thickness. Apply more compound and press the patch back into place. Hold the patch in place with painter's tape, and allow the compound to dry overnight.

Use a 4-inch drywall knife to apply joint compound over the patched hole. Be sure to spread the compound at least 4 inches beyond the hole. Cut a strip of paper drywall tape long enough to overlap the hole by at least 2 inches. Press the tape into the compound, covering the hole. If the hole is wider than one strip of tape, apply two strips, butting them edge to edge but not overlapping. Smooth the tape with the knife, and let the repair dry overnight.

Sand the repair with 120-grit sandpaper, then apply a second compound coat with a 6-inch knife, spreading the compound well beyond the first coat. Once dry, sand the area, then prime and paint.

Large Holes

To repair larger holes in drywall, it's best simply to cut out the damaged area between two studs, and install new drywall. Start by using a level to mark level and plumb cut lines around the damaged area. Be sure that each vertical cut line is flush along the inside edge of a stud.

Check for any hidden wires or pipes, then cut out the old drywall with a drywall saw or compass saw. You'll need lumber to attach the piece to, so screw a 2 x 2 flush with the studs on each side of the opening. Cut a length of 1 x 4 to fit across the top and bottom of the opening. Hold each 1 x 4 in place with half its width extending into the opening. Secure the 1 x 4s with 1-1/4-inch drywall screws.

Next, cut a new piece of drywall to size and set it into the hole. Fasten the drywall patch to the 1 x 4 and 2 x 2 supports with 1-1/4-inch drywall screws.

Now patch up the edges: Use a 4-inch drywall knife to apply joint compound around the perimeter. Spread the compound at least 4 inches beyond the opening. Press paper drywall tape into the compound, covering the seam between the patch and wall. Smooth the tape flat with the knife, and let the repair dry overnight.

Sand the repair with 120-grit sandpaper, then apply a second compound coat with a 6-inch knife, spreading the compound well beyond the first coat. Let the second coat dry. Since this is a bigger repair job, you'll want to go with a third coat of compound to make your fix invisible. So sand the area, then apply a third coat of compound with an 8- or 10-inch knife. Once dry, sand, prime, and paint.

Loose Joint Tape

The seams between drywall sheets are covered by strips of paper tape, which are embedded in a thick layer of joint compound. Unfortunately it's not uncommon for paper tape to pull loose and start to peel from the wall. This problem can happen in any room, but occurs most often in bathrooms where moisture helps loosen the tape.

To fix it, start by using a sharp utility knife to cut out the loose section of tape. When making the cuts, it's important to slice beyond the loose piece and through a section of tape that is firmly adhered to the wall.

After removing the loose section, use a 4-inch-wide drywall knife to spread a layer of joint compound over the exposed joint. Lay a new piece of paper tape into the compound, then press it flat with the knife. Be sure the ends of the new tape butt against, but don't overlap, the existing tape.

Lastly, you'll follow the same procedure as our other repairs: Allow the repair to dry overnight, then sand flush with 120-grit sandpaper. Apply a second compound coat with a 6-inch knife, spreading the compound well beyond the first coat. Once dry, sand the area, then prime and paint.

Crumpled Corner Bead
When two sheets of drywall meet at an outside wall corner, they're protected by an L-shaped metal strip called corner bead. Corner bead is nailed over the corner and then concealed by two or three layers of joint compound.

Metal corner bead is pretty tough stuff, but it's not indestructible. It can get dented through any number of activities, including run-ins with the vacuum cleaner, a tyke on a trike, or moving furniture. The good news is that ordinarily only a small section of the corner bead gets damaged, making the repair much simpler.

Begin by using a hacksaw to cut through the corner bead approximately 2 inches above and below the damaged section. Next, take a utility knife and cut along each vertical edge of the corner bead, making sure you slice through the paint and joint compound. Pry the severed piece of corner bead from the wall using a thin pry bar and straight-blade screwdriver. Be extra careful—it's easy to damage the surrounding drywall surfaces, and you'll create a lot more work for yourself if you do.

Now use aviation snips to cut a new piece of corner bead to replace the damaged section. Set the new piece into place and fasten it with 1-1/2-inch drywall nails. Conceal the repair with two to three coats of joint compound, making sure to sand between coats. When done, prime and paint to match the walls.

Source : https://www.popularmechanics.com

Tips Interior

Closing Up the Walls: Hanging Drywall

What Is Drywall?

Before the walls of a new home get covered up with drywall, the other subcontractors have done the carpentry, plumbing, electrical work, etc. These are known as the mechanicals rough-in.

Drywall is a fabricated panel of dried plaster sandwiched between two sheets of paper. It's commonly known as gypsum board or plasterboard, and its brand name is drywall. Once it's up changing anything behind it, unfortunately, is expensive. This reason alone is why it's extremely important for any new homeowner to make several walks through the house to make sure all the plugs, jacks, outlets, etc. are in the proper place.

During one of his visits to the house, Brad notices some problems in the home's framing that could create unevenness in the drywall. Once he and the site supervisor are happy with the solution, the drywall process can begin.

The Drywall Process

Even though the drywall process is referred to as "one phase" of construction, according to Glenn Cottrell, a Building Scientist for Ibacos, there are actually two disciplines:

-You typically have a crew that "hangs" the drywall.

-And you have a crew that "finishes" the drywall.

These involve different skill sets and different trades. The first crew, obviously, is the hanging crew. Instead of making the crew carry the drywall sheets through the house and up the stairs, they save time by taking one of the upstairs windows out and hauling the sheets via a lift.

A house the size of the Obergs' requires hundreds of sheets of drywall, not to mention the hundreds of gallons of drywall compound — also known as mud.

The hanging crew typically charges according to the complexity and square footage of the house. Areas such as bay windows, skylights, archways, vaulted ceilings and odd-shaped rooms cost more because of the extra man-hours it takes to complete the job.

Drywallers hang the drywall on the ceilings first and then the walls. Behind each sheet of drywall, the installer runs a bead of adhesive and then screws the sheets to the framing. The adhesive is added insurance against the possibility of "nail pops," which are caused after a long period of time when the wood framing expands and contracts. As wood dries the nails will recede from the stud and the drywall will move away from the shrinking wood stud, which results in a nail pop.

Another important aspect of drywalling is the cutting of the holes for plugs and outlets. With accurate measurements and precise cuts, the hangers can finish their work in a matter of days.

Basically, drywalling can be seen as a giant jigsaw puzzle where virtually every square inch is covered.

Source : http://www.diynetwork.com

Wall and Ceiling

Sanding Drywall: Prepping for Paint

Sanding drywall is the final step in the drywalling process. Unlike the muscular work of lifting and installing drywall panels, sanding can be slow work. Make sure you invest in the appropriate equipment and protect yourself and your belongings from dust before you get started. Cleaning up can become a significant part of drywall sanding. You will need to vacuum several times as dust gets into the smallest cracks. Remember that you will be preparing your walls for paint or wallpaper, so make sure you achieve a smooth finish. A good primer or sealer will help hide any imperfections on your walls.

Avoid Oversanding

Making sure your walls are smooth is the objective of sanding, but you have to be careful not to oversand. Oversanding joints can damage the paper face of your drywall panels and leave scuff marks or tear marks. Always start out with light sanding and make sure your sandpaper is not too coarse.

Preparing for Sanding

Sanding drywall creates a lot of dust. Before you begin to sand, you will need to prepare the room and protect yourself from dust inhalation. Even though you will want to completely seal off the room to protect your house from the buildup of a layer of dust, you will also need to properly ventilate the room. Open a window and place a fan in the window to blow the air outside, or use an air cleaner. As you prepare to sand you should keep in mind the following advice:

Seal off the room with plastic in the doorway so that dust does not escape into the rest of your house.
Properly ventilate the room, but do not open all windows, as this will cause the dust to circulate.
Lay a drop cloth on the floor to catch the dust.
Cover any furniture in the room with plastic.
Wear goggles and a dust mask to protect yourself from dust inhalation.
You might also want to wear a hat to keep dust out of your hair.

Dust Mask

A mask offers some protection against large particle inhalation. Choose a design that fits tightly. A metallic strip over the bridge of the nose keeps the mask in position and makes it as airtight as possible.

Reducing Dust

If you are sensitive to dust or just want to try to avoid the dust from sanding, try wet sanding. Use a small-celled polyurethane sponge to wet the walls–the smaller cells help hold the water and prevent it from dripping. However, wet sanding does not create the same fine finish as dry-sanding. Another option for dust-free sanding is using a commercial sanding machine or dust-free tool designed to be attached to a vacuum.

Sanding Tools

While you may opt for traditional sandpaper to finish your drywall job, there are special sanding tools to help make the work move faster and help minimize dust. Unless you are an experienced drywaller, you will find bumps and ridges along your walls that will take a lot of care to sand smooth. As with all DIY tasks, choosing the right tool for the job is essential. Personal protective equipment, including dust masks, is important to use while sanding drywall, especially if you are sensitive to dust.

Starting to Sand

After you have prepared the room for sanding, take a first pass at the walls with a pole sander with 120-grit sandpaper. Make sure that you use even pressure across the wall and ceiling surfaces. Glide the pole sander across all of the taped seams, blending the joints into the surface of the drywall. You may find it difficult to smooth the inside corners and smaller areas with a pole sander.

The next step involves hand sanding. Before you begin to hand sand, inspect the walls. Pass the palm of your hand over the joints. Use a light to shine on the wall surface you plan to sand, so that it will illuminate the seams, casting light across imperfections and making them evident. Use sandpaper or a hand sander with 150-grit sandpaper. If you use sandpaper, fold it to create an edge.

Sanding Techniques

Hand Sanding

For details and finishing work, hand sand your walls. Use even pressure in a circular motion to buff out scratches and imperfections (Image 1).

Wet Sanding

It may take practice to get the same type of finish as hand sanding. Use a sponge to wet the walls and clean the sponge frequently (Image 2).

Pole Sanding

Pole sanders are used for a first pass at walls and ceilings(Image 3). You can twist the handle to control the ball joint on the sanding head to allow the sander to switch directions and turn around the inside corners.

Source : http://www.diynetwork.com

Tips Interior

Tips and Tricks for Accurately Cutting Drywall

Unless your room is a perfect 4' x 8' square, with no openings, you will need to cut drywall to complete your project. Take time before you begin to accurately measure and purchase drywall panels to reduce the amount of cutting you will have to do. Use full sheets wherever possible during the project, and always cut the drywall panel to length so that the end falls in the center of a joist or stud. You will then be able to attach the next panel to the other half of the joist or stud.

Cutting Tips

Making cuts along the length of a sheet can be tough. One method is to snap a chalkline along the sheet and then score the line by hand. You may also use a tape measure to mark out accurate guide lines.

When you need to cut inside corners, cut one side with a drywall saw. Then score the other side of the drywall with a utility knife and snap it back as you would any other cut.

Bend the back panel away from the score line to break it along the score. It is usually easier to snap the panel away from you. Be careful to not rip the paper face when using a drywall saw. Make cuts away from the hand holding the straight edge.

Cutting the Drywall Vertically

A. Mark the panel and score it using a straight edge and a utility knife. Pass the knife just through the top layer of paper and into the core (Image 1).

B. Snap the drywall panel along the score line, and away from cut side (Image 2).

C. Score the back of the panel with a utility knife to break the paper, and snap forward to break (Image 3).

D. Rasp and sand the edges of the drywall panel to remove any bumps or imperfections (Image 4).

Marking Horizontal Guide Lines

A. Mark the panel according to your measurements. Snap a line across the panel to provide a straight line for scoring (Image 1).

B. Alternatively, use a tape measure as a straight edge to mark the cutting line (Image 2).

Measuring Tips

Circular Light Fixtures

Measure from the center of the fitting to the sides of where the drywall sheet will be attached, then transfer the measurements to a sheet of drywall. Take this mark as the center point of the hole. Use a circular hole cutter to score the hole’s outline several times, so that you may then tap it out with a hammer.

Lights Switches and Outlets

Cutting square holes takes careful measuring and marking. Measure from the side edge of where the sheet will go to the right and left sides of the box. Then measure from the top and bottom edges to the top and bottom of the box. Transfer these marks to the sheet of drywall and cut it with a saw.

Preparing to Cut Drywall

While many DIYers find that cutting the drywall is the most straightforward part of the job, it can easily turn difficult if you do not use the right tools or if your tools are not in good condition.

It is important that you always use a sharp blade when cutting drywall. A blunt blade can tear the paper face, leaving a more difficult seam to finish later.

Always score the panels before attempting to cut through them. The best way to cut a piece of drywall is to use the "score-and-snap" method shown opposite. Score along one face of the sheet and then snap it back. If there is damage done to the back of the drywall, it will not be noticed on your finished wall. Always snap the panel away from the score cut.

Source : http://www.diynetwork.com

Wall and Ceiling

How to Repair Damaged Plaster

How to Repair Damaged Plaster

These step-by-step instructions demonstrate how to easily repair damaged plaster drywall.

TOOLS
sandpaper
drywall knife
drill

MATERIALS
construction adhesive
shims
drywall screws

STEP 1

Mark the Damaged Area

Snap a chalk line or use a carpenter's square to form a rectangle that encompasses the damage. To protect sound plaster from damage while clearing deteriorated plaster from the rectangle, screw plaster washers just outside the chalked lines.

STEP 2

Score the Plaster

Score the plaster along the chalked lines with a utility knife; then, with a hammer and cold chisel, remove the damaged plaster within the rectangle, chiseling gently to avoid loosening plaster outside the rectangle.

STEP 3

Attach Plywood Strips

Cut strips of 1/4" plywood, 1" wide. Edge the opening with the strips, loosely fastened with 1-5/8" drywall screws driven partway into the lath. Shim the strips to position a scrap of drywall flush with the plaster. Tighten the screws. Trim the protruding shims with a keyhole saw.

STEP 4

Adhere the Drywall Patch

Cut a piece of drywall to fit the rectangle. Depending on the thickness of the plaster, use 1/4", 1/2", or 5/8" drywall. Apply a bead of construction adhesive to each plywood strip, then press the drywall against the adhesive. Fasten the drywall to the plywood strips with 1" drywall screws 6" apart, starting at the corners.

STEP 5

Tape the Joints and Apply Compound

Cut pieces of mesh drywall tape to cover the edges of the patch, and press them into place. Using a 6" or 8" drywall knife, spread joint compound over the tape, just thick enough to cover the tape. Do not wrinkle the tape. Allow the patch to dry for 24 hours, then apply a second coat, feathering the edges. Once the patch has dried, smooth it with fine-grit sandpaper on a sanding block, feathering the edges. It may take 3 or 4 coats to get a perfectly smooth patch.

Source : http://www.diynetwork.com

Wall and Ceiling

How to Repair Large Holes in Drywall

Follow these step-by-step instructions to repair seriously damaged drywall.

TOOLS
pencil
drywall saw
hand saw

MATERIALS
drywall tape
drywall sheet
joint compound

INTRODUCTION

Mark Around the Damaged Area

Locate the position of the nearest stud or joist on either side of the hole. Using a carpenter's square, mark an opening with 90-degree corners to be cut around the hole. Draw along the inside edges of the two studs or joists that flank the hole, and along any framing members between them.

If a stud frames a window or door, continue the marks to the next stud: doing so avoids a joint in line with the opening, which would otherwise be subjected to cracking from repeated opening and closing. Where a hole lies within eight inches of an inside corner, draw to the end of the panel to avoid forming a new joint too close to the corner.

STEP 1

Cut Out the Damaged Area

Use a utility knife to score along the ceiling and all pencil marks before sawing out the damaged area. Then cut out the sections of drywall between framing members with a drywall saw or a keyhole saw. Clean the edges of the cuts with a utility knife.

STEP 2

Cut Out the Patch

If the damaged area came out in one piece like the one shown in the image, use that section as a template when cutting a patch. Be sure to match the tapered area of the new piece with that of the old one.

Otherwise, measure each side of the opening as well as the sizes and positions of any electrical boxes, door frames, or window frames within it. Transfer the measurements to a panel of the same type and thickness as the damaged drywall, using a carpenter's square to ensure 90-degree corners. Don't use the panel's tapered edges for the patch's edges unless an edge of the opening falls at an inside corner.

Cut out the patch, positioning the saw blade on the outline's inner edge; for an opening within the patch, cut just outside the line.

STEP 3

Attach Cleats to Wall Studs

Cut 2x4 or 2x2 cleats to fit alongside the joists or studs at the edges of the opening. Where possible, cut the cleats 2 to 3 inches longer than the opening.

Secure the cleats flush with the studs or joists by driving 3-inch screws every 4 to 6 inches along the cleat.

STEP 4

Fit the Patch into Cleats and Studs

Before positioning the patch, mark the location of any exposed stud or joist on the wall or ceiling near the opening. Fit the patch in the opening and drive 1-5/8-inch drywall screws through the patch about every 6 inches into each cleat, stud or joist, starting at the middle and working to the edges. Do not screw the patch to a top plate or a sole plate.

STEP 5

Apply Fiberglass Tape to the Seams

Cut a piece of fiberglass tape to the length of the edge seam plus an extra two; press the tape in place over the crack. Continue in this manner until the whole seam is covered.

STEP 6

Finish the Wall Surface

Spread a wide layer of joint compound over the tape, feathering the edges. Allow the area to dry, then apply a second coat, feathering the edges again. Sand the area smooth once it has dried.

Source : http://www.diynetwork.com