Dry Wall Solution

Showing posts with label Dry Wall Solution. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Dry Wall Solution. Show all posts

5 Fixes for Damaged Drywall

5 Fixes for Damaged Drywall

The interior walls and ceilings of most homes are covered with gypsum wallboard, which is commonly known as drywall. Over time, these surfaces inevitably get holes, cracks, and dents—and they must be repaired before you can apply a fresh coat of paint. Fortunately, all you need are some basic hand tools, the right materials, and a few tricks of the trade.


Nail Pops

Drywall is often fastened to wall studs and ceiling joists with drywall nails, which have long, thin shanks and large, round heads. Occasionally those nails will lose their grip and pop through the surface. There are many reasons why nails pop, but it usually happens when the wood framing shrinks, the house settles, or the nails aren't driven solidly into the center of the stud or joist. Regardless of the reason, the repair is the same (and don't try to simply hammer it back in; there's no guarantee it won't pop back out).

 Start by using pliers to yank the popped nail. Next, locate the exact center of the stud or joist. You can use an electronic stud finder, or a hammer and a finishing nail. For the latter, drive the finishing nail through the drywall until you pinpoint each edge of the stud or joist.

 Now use a cordless drill/driver to drive two 1-5/8-inch coarse-thread drywall screws into the center of the stud or joist. Position one screw about 1 inch above the old nail hole and the other an inch below. Drive the screws below the surface, but try not to puncture the drywall's paper face.

 Next, use a 4-inch drywall knife to apply a thin coat of joint compound over the repaired area. Allow the compound to dry overnight, then sand it smooth with 120-grit sandpaper. Apply a second coat of compound, but this time use a 6-inch knife and spread the compound several inches beyond the first coat. Once that coat is dry, sand the area, then prime and paint.

 Your drywall might have been fastened with screws rather than nails to begin with, but screws can pop through the surface, too. Use the same fix if that happens.

Small Holes

You swing open a door in your home with a bit too much gusto and wham—the doorknob punches through the wall. The easiest way to repair this hole is to buy a stick-on repair plate. Sold at most hardware stores, these round, hard-plastic plates have an adhesive backing. Simply peel off the protective backing and stick the plate to the wall over the hole. Then, paint the plate to match the wall.

 To repair other small holes, try this quick fix: Cut a strip of half-inch or thicker plywood and make it slightly narrower than the hole diameter and about 4 inches longer than the hole diameter. Then tie a string around the center of the strip and slide the plywood through the hole. By pulling on the string, you'll be able to hold the plywood strip flat against the backside of the drywall where you wouldn't normally be able to reach.

 On opposite sides of the hole, drive a 1-5/8-inch drywall screw through the drywall and into the plywood strip. Remove the string, then cut a round piece of drywall to fit the hole. Smear joint compound onto the back of the round patch and press it into the hole. Check to be sure the patch is flush with the surrounding wall surface. If it's not, remove the patch and carefully peel off the paper backing, reducing its thickness. Apply more compound and press the patch back into place. Hold the patch in place with painter's tape, and allow the compound to dry overnight.

 Use a 4-inch drywall knife to apply joint compound over the patched hole. Be sure to spread the compound at least 4 inches beyond the hole. Cut a strip of paper drywall tape long enough to overlap the hole by at least 2 inches. Press the tape into the compound, covering the hole. If the hole is wider than one strip of tape, apply two strips, butting them edge to edge but not overlapping. Smooth the tape with the knife, and let the repair dry overnight.

 Sand the repair with 120-grit sandpaper, then apply a second compound coat with a 6-inch knife, spreading the compound well beyond the first coat. Once dry, sand the area, then prime and paint.

Large Holes

To repair larger holes in drywall, it's best simply to cut out the damaged area between two studs, and install new drywall. Start by using a level to mark level and plumb cut lines around the damaged area. Be sure that each vertical cut line is flush along the inside edge of a stud.

 Check for any hidden wires or pipes, then cut out the old drywall with a drywall saw or compass saw. You'll need lumber to attach the piece to, so screw a 2 x 2 flush with the studs on each side of the opening. Cut a length of 1 x 4 to fit across the top and bottom of the opening. Hold each 1 x 4 in place with half its width extending into the opening. Secure the 1 x 4s with 1-1/4-inch drywall screws.

 Next, cut a new piece of drywall to size and set it into the hole. Fasten the drywall patch to the 1 x 4 and 2 x 2 supports with 1-1/4-inch drywall screws.

 Now patch up the edges: Use a 4-inch drywall knife to apply joint compound around the perimeter. Spread the compound at least 4 inches beyond the opening. Press paper drywall tape into the compound, covering the seam between the patch and wall. Smooth the tape flat with the knife, and let the repair dry overnight.

 Sand the repair with 120-grit sandpaper, then apply a second compound coat with a 6-inch knife, spreading the compound well beyond the first coat. Let the second coat dry. Since this is a bigger repair job, you'll want to go with a third coat of compound to make your fix invisible. So sand the area, then apply a third coat of compound with an 8- or 10-inch knife. Once dry, sand, prime, and paint.

Loose Joint Tape

The seams between drywall sheets are covered by strips of paper tape, which are embedded in a thick layer of joint compound. Unfortunately it's not uncommon for paper tape to pull loose and start to peel from the wall. This problem can happen in any room, but occurs most often in bathrooms where moisture helps loosen the tape.

 To fix it, start by using a sharp utility knife to cut out the loose section of tape. When making the cuts, it's important to slice beyond the loose piece and through a section of tape that is firmly adhered to the wall.

 After removing the loose section, use a 4-inch-wide drywall knife to spread a layer of joint compound over the exposed joint. Lay a new piece of paper tape into the compound, then press it flat with the knife. Be sure the ends of the new tape butt against, but don't overlap, the existing tape.

 Lastly, you'll follow the same procedure as our other repairs: Allow the repair to dry overnight, then sand flush with 120-grit sandpaper. Apply a second compound coat with a 6-inch knife, spreading the compound well beyond the first coat. Once dry, sand the area, then prime and paint.

 Crumpled Corner Bead
When two sheets of drywall meet at an outside wall corner, they're protected by an L-shaped metal strip called corner bead. Corner bead is nailed over the corner and then concealed by two or three layers of joint compound.

 Metal corner bead is pretty tough stuff, but it's not indestructible. It can get dented through any number of activities, including run-ins with the vacuum cleaner, a tyke on a trike, or moving furniture. The good news is that ordinarily only a small section of the corner bead gets damaged, making the repair much simpler.

 Begin by using a hacksaw to cut through the corner bead approximately 2 inches above and below the damaged section. Next, take a utility knife and cut along each vertical edge of the corner bead, making sure you slice through the paint and joint compound. Pry the severed piece of corner bead from the wall using a thin pry bar and straight-blade screwdriver. Be extra careful—it's easy to damage the surrounding drywall surfaces, and you'll create a lot more work for yourself if you do.

 Now use aviation snips to cut a new piece of corner bead to replace the damaged section. Set the new piece into place and fasten it with 1-1/2-inch drywall nails. Conceal the repair with two to three coats of joint compound, making sure to sand between coats. When done, prime and paint to match the walls.

 Source : https://www.popularmechanics.com

How to Repair Drywall After Removing Tile

How to Repair Drywall After Removing Tile

Attractive, washable tile creates a durable wall surface when installed over drywall, making it a long-term design element in most cases. If the tiles were installed correctly, removing them often damages the surface of the drywall, resulting in torn paper, stuck-on adhesive or pulled-out chunks of compressed gypsum. Depending on the extent of the damage, repairs usually involve filling holes, applying a skim coat to the surface and taping seams.

1

Scrape away stuck-on tile adhesive from the drywall with a plastic putty knife. Hold the putty knife as flat as possible to reduce gouges in the drywall.

2

Cut away loose bits of peeling drywall paper with a utility knife.

3

Sand the wall with a drywall-sanding pad to smooth the surface. It’s okay if the wall feels slightly rough from residual adhesive, but sand sufficiently to remove chunks larger than a small grain of sand.

4

Thin premixed drywall compound with water to the consistency of pancake batter, and pour some into a paint roller pan.

5

Dip a thin-nap paint roller in the compound and roll the mixture onto the wall. If you’re repairing a small section of wall, you can use a small foam roller. Roll the compound on thinly and evenly. It’s a messy job, so wear old clothing.

6

Smooth the compound while it’s still wet with a drywall-taping knife. A small 4-inch knife is suitable for areas less than 2 feet in diameter, but if you’re skimming a larger section of drywall, a 12-inch or larger taping knife works better.

7

Sand the skimmed drywall after the compound mixture dries completely and takes on a powdery white appearance. Use a light touch; you don’t want to remove the compound, just smooth away ridges and bumps. Wear a respirator and protective eyewear during the sanding process.

8

Repeat the skimming, drying and sanding process until you’ve built up a new, smooth surface on the drywall. It’s always better to apply two or more very light applications of compound instead of a single thick coat.

9

Cover cracks and unfinished drywall joints with self-adhesive drywall tape. If the original contractor installed the drywall panels with the specific intent of installing tile, he might not have finished the joints. Don’t overlap the tape.

10

Smooth premixed drywall compound with a 4-inch taping knife into small cracks and unfinished joints. Push it through the mesh tape and smooth it flush with the drywall.

11

Sand the joints with a drywall-sanding pad after the compound dries. Apply two or more light coats of compound over the seams, letting each coat dry and sanding it before applying the next.

Things You Will Need


  • Plastic putty knife
  • Utility knife
  • Drywall sanding pad
  • Premixed drywall compound
  • Plastic bucket
  • Thin-nap paint roller
  • Roller pan
  • Drywall taping knives (various sizes)
  • Straightedge
  • Self-adhesive drywall tape

Tip

Sometimes, the tiles are so tightly bonded with the drywall that it’s difficult to remove them without badly tearing up the drywall. If this is the case, it might be simpler to remove the section of drywall with the tiles still attached. That way, you can install new drywall without worrying about skimming the surface.

Warning

Make sure each coat is completely dry before sanding.

 Source : http://homeguides.sfgate.com

How to Fix Torn Drywall Facing

How to Fix Torn Drywall Facing

The paper facing on drywall can tear off under a number circumstances, but it's never a major problem. Whether you pulled glue or old wallpaper off the wall, and some of the paper facing came with it, or you were over zealous in scraping off old texture, you'll be able to make repairs with joint compound and a drywall knife. Sometimes a surface layer of the paper facing comes off, leaving the under layer exposed, and sometimes the entire facing comes off, exposing the gypsum core. The repair isn't significantly different in either case.

1. 

Pull off as much loose paper as you can, but do it carefully to avoid increasing the area of the repair. One method to limit the amount of paper you pull off is to score around the repair with a sharp utility knife and pull off paper up to the score line.

2.

Spread drywall primer on the area that needs repair. The primer will seal the exposed facing or gypsum core and aid adhesion of joint compound. Use a water-based product to avoid releasing toxic fumes into the room. Let the primer dry before proceeding.

3.

Spread a thin layer of all-purpose joint compound over the torn facing with a 6-inch drywall knife. Scrape it flat, feathering the edges of the repair into the surrounding wall, and let it dry for 8 to 12 hours.

4.

Spread a second layer and scrape it flat. You probably won't need more than two layers.

5.

Sand the final layer with 120-grit sandpaper after it dries.

6.

Spread a coat of drywall primer on the repair. Let the primer dry, then paint the repair with the wall color.


Things You Will Need


  • Utility knife
  • Drywall primer
  • Drywall joint compound
  • 6-inch drywall knife
  • 120-grit sandpaper
  • Paint

Tip

If a hole extends 1/2 inch or more into the gypsum core, spread a thin coat of patching compound over the hole to seal it before repairing the surface damage with joint compound. Patching compound sets to a hard consistency and is difficult to sand, so be sure to scrape it flat.

 Source : http://homeguides.sfgate.com

What Happens When Drywall Gets Wet (And What You Should Do About It)

What Happens When Drywall Gets Wet  (And What You Should Do About It)

Drywall, plasterboard, wallboard, gypsum board, SheetrockTM, LAGYP, or GypRocTM.

Whatever you call it, it’s an important part of daily life. Yet, you never stop to think about it unless you have to, like if – heaven forbid – your basement floods.

Many Minneapolis residents have had drywall on their minds for awhile now. That’s because basements throughout the Twin Cities took a huge hit from heavy rain flooding a couple of weeks ago, especially near Minnehaha Creek.

While drywall is pretty sturdy, when it’s exposed to water for too long it can get damaged. It may lose its structural integrity, becoming soft and weak. Depending on what category of water drywall is exposed to, and how wet it got, you may be able to save it. Speed is critical to avoiding mold damage, though.

FIRST  

You’ll first want to check your drywall for moisture. Either use a non-penetrating moisture meter or remove the baseboards and use a screwdriver to poke holes. If the drywall is soft, it is wet.

NEXT

You’ll need to check the interior of the wall. Do this by using a penetrating moisture meter or making a larger hole to check for moisture on the studs. Do you see insulation (even if it’s mostly on exterior walls)? It’s critical to check it for moisture content – especially if it is fiberglass or cellulose.
NOTE – If moisture is present, the walls need to be cut 2′ up and the wet insulation removed. This should also be done if the walls have been wet for several days regardless of whether there is insulation.

Insulation loses its R-value when wet and is more of a potential liability than anything else in this condition.

Wet walls and insulation will hold moisture for a long time. This means that mold clusters can form inside the wall.

If your drywall has started to mold, you will need to replace all or part of it. You want it out of your home as quickly as possible.

It’s best to have moldy materials removed by a trained professional, and that’s because improper removal can cause spores to be spread throughout the entire home. This could lead to additional cleaning. Plus, mold can cause allergies, asthma, and other conditions detrimental to your family’s health. You’ll want to be especially mindful of your home’s indoor air quality.

Do you have questions of any kind regarding basement flooding or mold? We are all about restoring healthy environments, and we love hearing from you

Source : http://www.greencleancare.com

How to Choose The Right Primer

How to Choose The Right Primer

No matter how many coats of paint you apply, finished walls rarely look perfect if the surface hasn't been prepared with primer first. But how do you know which one is the right one for the job?


A Primer on Primers  

A primer is a special type of paint that goes on before the finish coat of paint. Primers lay the foundation of your paint job and can be used on wood, metal, drywall and concrete. Whether you're painting interior or exterior surfaces, primers ensure that the painting surface has an ideal, uniform texture (slightly coarse) so that paint adheres effectively. In addition, primers seal up porous surfaces and prevent stains and previous colors from showing up underneath your paint job. They also help even out walls after you've spot patched and made repairs.

 While paint can be applied to already-painted surfaces without priming, it's usually better to prime so that your work is as durable and long lasting as it can be. When working on painted surfaces, priming is necessary if you're switching paint types. For example, going from oil-based paints to latex-based paints and vice versa, or changing colors drastically. Also, if paint is cracking, crumbling or if there is surface damage, priming can eliminate any problems with your paint job (after you've made repairs and prepared the surface).

 Primers are formulated for interior surfaces, exterior surfaces, metals and in particular tints. Interior primer seals, increases adhesion and creates a uniform surface for walls, etc. Exterior primers minimize cracking and mildew growth, and protect masonry surfaces from alkalinity and efflorescence. Exterior primers come in specific formulas for use on wood, masonry or metal. Metal primers provide a tight bond between the surface and topcoat and inhibit corrosion. Tinted primers improve the end result of your painting project; they work with the finish coat color to boost color accents for a better-looking job.

Types of Primers  

There are three basic types of primers: oil-based, latex and pigmented shellac primer. Each has its strengths and weaknesses and works best on certain surfaces and in particular circumstances.

Oil-based

Oil-based primers and paints have been an industry standard for decades. These primers work with both oil paints and latex paints, making them very versatile and applicable to a wide variety of surfaces. Wood (painted or unpainted), steel and other metals, and surfaces with existing paint, such as interior and exterior walls are ideal surfaces for oil-based primers.

 Many oil-based primers are good "stain killers" and prevent stains from showing through your new coats of paint. They are good for blocking stains on your walls from ink, nicotine and water.

 Oil-based primers are ideal for interior and exterior unfinished or bare wood because they seal the porous surface of wood, enabling the coat of paint to better cover the surface. They stop tannins, released from woods, such as cedar or redwood, from bleeding through the surface of the paint. They also prevent or slow down paint peeling, cracking and blistering.

 A drawback of oil-based primers (as with oil-based paints), they are often slow-drying and release high amounts of volatile organic compounds (VOCs), which can be harmful to people in high concentrations and with prolonged exposure. They also require that you use harsh thinners and solvents to clean brushes and applicators, and have to be disposed of carefully and properly. Oil-based primers should not be used on masonry.

Latex-based

Latex primers are water-based and ideal for prepping unfinished drywall for painting. They are more flexible and fast drying, and are less brittle than oil-based primers, making them less susceptible to peeling and cracking. They are also good for priming soft wood (such as pine), brick and concrete and galvanized metals.

 Latex primers are good for drywall because they even out the surface of the wallboard and any joint compound applied to it, and any areas that have been patched or repaired. They also can cover and seal in previous minor stains from smoke, lipstick, crayon, etc., but are not as effective at covering stains as oil- and shellac-based primers.

 These primers are water-soluble and so are easy to clean. They also come in low- or no-VOC formulas, making them a healthier alternative to oil-based and shellac primers.

Shellac Primer

Shellac has been used for centuries to seal wood and other surfaces. Good for interior paint jobs, shellac-based primers are possibly the best stain-blocking primers, working well on severe water and smoke damage to walls and surfaces — they even seal in smells from smoke damage. They also are excellent at preventing normal water, rust and smoke stains, as well as wood tannins from bleeding through new paint. They work well on wood, metal, plaster, and even plastic, and are fast drying and highly adhesive. They also can be used with both oil-based and latex paints.

 The drawback to using shellac-based primers is that they are not as versatile as latex or oil and they give off more fumes. They require that you use denatured alcohol to thin them and clean applicators.

How to Apply Primer  

2-inch synthetic paint brushfinished room with red walls
Applying primer is done pretty much the same way as paint. Knowing a few tricks and tips though will have you laying the perfect foundation for your paint projects.

 Before starting any painting project, you need to thoroughly clean and repair the surface on which you'll be painting. Wash the wall surface using a damp cloth, mild detergent and water. Patch any holes and wall damage with spackling compound. Scrape off flaky paint using a putty knife.
Helpful Tip
Use synthetic brushes, such as polyester or nylon, with latex primer. Natural bristle brushes work best if you're using oil-based primers.

 Priming doesn't require as much care as painting, but you'll use the same technique. For interior rooms, start with the ceiling, first covering the perimeter and unpainted areas around fixtures with a paintbrush. Use a roller applicator and move in 6'-square sections, use a series of overlapping "W" strokes from right to left, then back from left to right. Spread the primer evenly using horizontal strokes. Continue in 6'-square sections until the entire surface is primed.


Safety Alert!
Primers and paints can give off fumes that can be hazardous if exposed to them for extended durations. Be sure your workspace is well ventilated. Open windows and/or use fans to circulate the air or draw it outside.

 Always prime if you're painting a lighter color over a darker one. Eggshell and semi-gloss paints in particular require a coat of primer as they often absorb unevenly. On flat-painted walls with minor repairs, you may only need to spot prime. For walls with larger areas of patching plaster, use True Value EasyCare® Ultra Premium Interior Primer/Sealer.

 Helpful Tips
If you're not sure whether existing paint is oil-based or latex, saturate a rag with alcohol or fingernail polish remover and wipe a small section of the area. If the paint is latex, you should have a bit of paint on the rag after you've wiped. If the paint is oil-based, it won't be affected.

 Don't wait too long after priming to apply the finishing coat of paint. Check the instructions on the primer can to determine how quickly you should start painting once the primer has completely dried.

 Now that you know a little bit about primers, it's time to start painting!

 Source : projects.truevalue.com

How to Fix / Repair Plaster Walls

How to Fix / Repair Plaster Walls

Many older homes may still have some walls and ceilings made of plaster and lath instead of the now standard drywall or wallboard. If you have holes or cracks in your plaster walls or ceilings, repairing them isn’t difficult. It can, however, require a bit more extra time and skill than patching a hole in drywall. Keep reading to learn how.

FIX CRACKS

Step 1: Prepare the Room  

Before starting, cover the floor with plastic drop cloths and fasten the cloths in place using painter’s tape. This will protect the floor from any spilled or splattered plaster or joint compound and make clean up a bit easier, as much of the dust from sanding will collect on the drop cloths. Close off the room using plastic sheeting and painter’s tape and cover vents to keep sanding dust from travelling through your HVAC system.

 Helpful Tip
A shop vacuum is a great tool for cleaning up sanding dust.

Step 2: Smooth and Patch  


Smooth and remove loose plaster pieces and any jagged edges on the surface around the crack with a putty knife. Use a cloth or rag to wipe away dust and debris. Dampen the area with a spray bottle and water. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to mix dry plaster with water in a large bucket. Pour the plaster from the bucket into a mud pan. Apply a layer of plaster to the crack with a 4” wallboard knife, making sure the layer is even with the rest of the wall. Crack repairs usually need only one layer of plaster. Allow the area to dry for 24 hours.

 Safety Alert!
When plastering, wear safety goggles, a long sleeve shirt and cotton work gloves for eye and skin protection. Wear a sanding respirator to prevent inhalation while breaking dried plaster or when mixing.

 Helpful Tips
Excess moisture in the wall or room can affect the plastering, so make sure to fix any leaks or causes of moisture several weeks before plastering.

 The best temperature for plastering is between 55 degrees and 70 degrees. Keep the room at this temperature at least 24 hours before plastering to ensure the walls are completely dry. The room must stay at this temperature during plastering and until the plaster has completely set.

 You can also use spackle and a joint compound to patch cracks. For the smallest cracks, you can use spackle. Apply small amounts with a 2” putty knife until the crack is covered. Let the spackle dry for the amount of time specified by the manufacturer. Sand it smooth. For larger cracks, you can use a joint compound. First, apply a strip of self-adhesive fiberglass wallboard tape across the entire length of the crack. This will help keep the crack from growing. Apply the joint compound with a 4” wallboard knife over the tape until it is completely covered. Feather your coverage about 3” all around the taped area so that it will blend in with the rest of the wall. Allow it to dry and then sand it smooth with fine-grit sandpaper. Apply a second coat of joint compound and feather this layer out 6” to 12” from the repaired area to help it blend in further. Allow it to dry again before proceeding.

 Safety Alert!
Wear safety goggles and a dust mask or respirator if you will be sanding a large repair area.

Step 3: Sand, Prime and Paint  

Using a piece of fine-grit sandpaper, sand the patched area until it is smooth. Wipe away sanding dust and debris with a damp cloth. Wipe the patch down with a damp sponge and paint the area with True Value EasyCare® Ultra Premium Interior Primer/Sealer and let it dry completely before continuing with your paint base coat. 

REPAIR HOLES

Step 1: Remove Damaged Plaster  

Remove the damaged plaster by using a cold chisel and a ball peen hammer to chip the damaged plaster off the wall. Be sure not to chip too hard or you will damage the lath, which is the wood structure that supports the plaster. Using a utility knife, smooth the inside edges of the hole.

Step 2: Apply Latex Bonding Agent  

To make sure the dry plaster and lath do not absorb too much moisture, use a paint brush to apply a latex bonding agent to the lath and exposed plaster. Ask someone at your local True Value hardware store for the right bonding agent for the plaster.


Step 3: Apply and Cross-Scratch Plaster  


Fill in the hole with plaster using a 10” wallboard knife. To help the second coat stick well, cross-scratch the first coat of plaster as it begins to set. This scratching or scoring with a putty knife or similar bladed tool creates shallow grooves (either vertically or horizontally) in the first coat that helps create a secure bond when the second coat is applied.

Step 4: Apply Second Layer  

After letting the first coat dry for 24 hours, use a spray bottle to dampen the area with water. Distribute a 3/8-inch thick layer of plaster over the hole and cross scratch as before. This layer must also dry for 24 hours.

Step 5: Apply layer of Joint Compound  


Apply the joint compound with a 10” wallboard knife after the second layer is dry. As you would with a wall crack, feather coverage about 3” around the repair area so it will blend in with the rest of the wall. Let it dry and then sand it smooth with fine-grit sandpaper. Apply a second coat of joint compound and feather this layer out 6” to 12” from the repaired area to help it blend in further. This final layer must be applied very thin to blend with the wall and must dry for 24 hours. Once completely dry, wipe the area with a damp sponge and sand until it is smooth with fine-grit sandpaper. Now you can prime and paint.

REPAIR LATH

In some cases, you may need to repair the wood lath behind a hole. If so, follow the steps below.

Step 1: Insert Metal Lath in the Hole  

If the lath behind the hole is damaged, cut the damaged wood out with a keyhole saw or similar cutting tool, or with a chisel and mallet. Take a piece of metal lath, which is similar to heavy screen, and insert a wire loop at the center of the lath. Holding the wire tightly, push the metal lath into the hole and pull the wire so that the metal lath is pressed firmly against the inside of the hole.


Step 2: Apply Plaster Over Lath  

Twist the metal wire tightly around a wooden dowel making sure the dowel is pressed firmly against the wall. Apply a coat of plaster until it fills the hole and cross-scratch it as it begins to set.

Step 3: Distribute Joint Compound  

Once the area is dry, remove the wooden dowel and cut the wire with wire cutters. Apply a thin layer of joint compound and let it dry for 24 hours. The area can be painted or wallpapered after sanding and being wiped down with a damp sponge.

 Congratulations! You’ve just repaired your plaster walls.

 Source : projects.truevalue.com

How to Remove Mold From Wall

How to Remove Mold From Wall

Mold on your interior walls doesn’t just look unpleasant; it can be a health hazard for your family. Depending on the amount and location, its presence also suggests a larger problem in your house—water infiltration.

For this project, we will focus on solving the mold problem. The remedy is two-fold: 1. Control moisture and 2. Kill the mold. While the former may take a more involved approach, depending on the situation, the latter often can be done with some bleach, water and a bit of elbow grease.


KNOW YOUR MOLD AND MILDEW

Mold can grow in your home wherever there’s an abundance of moisture, especially when it’s allowed to remain for extended periods of time. Mold usually appears on walls, ceilings and floors of homes where moisture management is not at its best. In particular, basements, shower walls and windowsills are areas where mold commonly likes to live. Mold and mildew, for all intents and purposes, are essentially the same thing; mildew is generically used to describe many minor mold problems in the home, such as on shower tile grout. However, some molds can become highly toxic to people if left to prosper. 

Mold can cause allergic reactions, asthma and other respiratory complications, and is especially a risk for small children, the elderly and those with existing respiratory illnesses or weakened immune systems. Mold can appear in many shapes and colors, none of which accurately determines the actual species of mold. However, it does commonly present itself in various tints of black, white, green or blue, and in many combinations of these and other colors.

What is Black Mold?

Black mold is often found inside houses with excessive moisture damage to wallboard and other surfaces. Much is made of this type of mold’s “toxicity” but the mold itself isn’t harmful. It does however have the potential to produce mycotoxins that can cause harm to people and pets, depending on the particular species of mold. A rule of thumb should be “use caution” when removing all molds, especially when in abundance.

What is White Mold?

White mold is often found in cool, damp environments such as in basements on walls and other structures. It is often confused with efflorescence, which is a mineral deposit that forms on foundation walls and other masonry surfaces due to water seepage. You can test to see if it’s mold by spraying it with water. If it dissolves, it is a mineral deposit; if it does not, then it’s most likely white mold.

What is Blue Mold?

Blue mold is another common color of household mold that can appear in damp areas of the home, such as on bathroom walls and ceilings. Moisture that builds up on walls after long, steamy showers can be just the right conditions for this mold to begin to form and thrive.

What is Green Mold?

Green mold is also very common in houses and like blue mold often appears in damp areas such as on shower walls and damp corners. As with most molds, green mold can be removed by scrubbing it away with a solution containing bleach.

CONTROL MOISTURE

According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), there is no way to eliminate all mold and mold spores indoors. The key to mold control is controlling indoor moisture:

  • Fix Water Problems (leaks, etc.) – Fix leaks as soon as you find them. Not only does a leaky basement or roof mean immediate structural damage, if not remedied, the waterlogged areas allow mold to thrive. See the project Repair Basement Leaks. Clean and dry any damp or wet building materials within 24 to 48 hours to prevent mold growth. If you don’t, and mold infiltrates them, they will need to be removed to completely fix the mold problem.
  • Reduce Indoor Humidity – The more humid your home is, the more likely it will be a haven for mold spores. Reduce humidity by increasing your home’s ventilation to keep the air from becoming warm and stagnant. Vent large appliances, such as washer/dryers, as well as your bathroom and kitchen. Use air conditioners and dehumidifiers.
  • Prevent Condensation – Insulate exterior walls, roofs, windows and pipes to reduce the potential for moisture forming from condensation.

REMOVE MOLD FROM BASEMENT/CONCRETE WALLS

Step 1: Prepare the Area  

You’ll notice mold in your basement by its appearance—usually black, white or bluish patches on the walls. It can also grow on any organic material adjacent to the mold-covered areas, such as carpeting, cardboard boxes, etc. Remove these affected items from the wall and dispose of what you can. Furniture may be salvaged with a good cleaning, but in some cases it may have to be thrown away. Moving these items out of the way will also give you room to work when removing the mold.

Step 2: Start Scrubbing  


There are many commercial products available to kill mold. Bleach, however, is considered the best thing to kill it, especially when combined with old-fashioned hard scrubbing. Mix one part bleach with three parts water in a bucket. Using a scrub brush or heavy-duty sponge, vigorously scrub the mold-affected wall with the bleach/water solution until the mold spots have disappeared. In some cases, you may need to let the solution remain on the wall for a few minutes after you’ve applied it to let it soak in. For tough mold-infested areas, you many need to use both a formulated mold remover and a bleach/water solution to get the job done.

Safety Alert!
Wear rubber gloves to protect your hands and safety goggles to avoid splashing the bleach solution in your eyes. Also, wear a respirator mask or dust mask to keep from breathing in any mold particles that may become airborne. If possible, ventilate the basement while you work. Wear old clothes, since you may get some of the bleach on yourself.

After you’ve scrubbed the affected walls, dry them with a towel and check the surface for any mold growth you may have missed. Put the items you moved back into the basement, but make sure you don’t put back anything with mold on it—you may end up back where you started in a few weeks.

There may be some stains on the walls even after you’ve scrubbed them. These can be removed by using a mold/mildew stain remover, available at your local True Value® hardware store.

Helpful Tips
Purchase a dehumidifier for your basement to keep the air dry and as inhospitable to mold as possible.

Keep an eye out for any leaks in the basement.

If you plan on painting the basement walls, use EasyCare® Ultra Premium Interior Primer/Sealer and EasyCare® Ultra Premium Interior Paint. It may also be necessary to seal your basement with a waterproof sealant before you prime and paint to keep out moisture and mold.


REMOVE MOLD FROM DRYWALL/PAINTED WALLS

Mold can often grow on drywall and painted interior walls, especially in areas where moisture and humidity are a factor, such as kitchens and bathrooms. Walls can also be affected if your roof or exterior walls are infiltrated by water. If the drywall remains wet, mold can begin to grow and penetrate the drywall throughout. When this happens, the drywall must be removed and replaced, as you will not be able to get rid of all mold under these circumstances.

Step 1: Assess the Damage  


If you notice mold on any interior walls, assess the condition of the wall and the extent to which the mold has taken over. If the drywall has been compromised, is crumbling or bowed out and covered with black or bluish splotches, it will need to be replaced. If the wall is structurally sound but still covered with mold, you should be able to remove the spots with a cleaner and a bit of scrubbing.

Safety Alert!
Some • mold is better off remediated by professionals because it may be harmful when present in large amounts. While unlikely, unless your home has extensive water damage from flooding or some other catastrophe, you probably won't come across an excessive amount of this kind of mold, commonly referred to as "black mold." If you do have large amounts throughout an interior area—anywhere around 10 sq. feet—it is recommended that you call a professional to have it removed.

Step 2: Prepare the Area  

Because you'll be using bleach or commercial mold-killing chemicals to remove the mold, you'll need to protect surrounding surfaces, such as flooring, from any kind of spills that might cause damage. Cover the floor with plastic drop cloths and tape them into place so they don't move around. It doesn't hurt to keep some old towels handy to catch any spills.

Step 3: Get Rid of the Mold  


The best thing for removing mildew and mold from walls is a bleach/water solution. Mix one part bleach to three parts water and apply it with a sponge or rag. There are also a number of commercial solutions available at your local True Value hardware store.

Safety Alert!
Wear waterproof rubber gloves when cleaning with bleach or other cleaners to protect your hands.

Helpful Tip
In kitchens and bathrooms, tile grout can sometimes develop patches of mildew. You can scrub this away with an old toothbrush. Wash down the walls after you've scrubbed.

Step 4: Use a Stain-Blocking Paint  
When you’ve finished cleaning away the splotches of mold, there still may be stains left on wall surfaces. Prime the wall with True Value EasyCare® Ultra Premium Interior Primer/Sealer then paint using True Value EasyCare® Ultra Premium Interior Paint as a topcoat.

Congratulations, you’re done! Stay vigilant and look for potential signs of mold by keeping in mind where and how it can grow.

Source : projects.truevalue.com

How To Patch Drywall

HOW TO PATCH DRYWALL


It's inevitable. No matter how careful you are, holes in your drywall are going to happen. Fortunately, no matter how extensive the damage, it is fixable.

FIX SMALL DRYWALL HOLES (LESS THAN 6")

Step 1: Cut a Square Around The Damage  

Cut the hole into a square or rectangular shape using a keyhole saw. Now cut a replacement piece of drywall 2" longer and 2" wider than the hole you just made. Use a tape measure to make it the right dimensions.

Step 2: Make a Patch  


Create a patch to fill in the hole. Lay the replacement piece of drywall on a flat surface with the backside facing up. Measure in 1" from all four edges and draw a line using a pencil. This should form a shape the size of the hole. Using a straight edge and utility knife, cut through the backside paper and the drywall gypsum. Do not cut the front-facing layer of paper.

Using a putty knife, peel away the backside paper and gypsum layer. Be careful not to tear the front-facing paper. The smaller part of the patch should fit into the hole. The paper edge should extend 1" beyond the hole.

Helpful Tip

If the patch isn't a perfect fit, place it against the hole and trim to size with a utility knife.

Step 3: Apply Joint Compound  


Apply a thin layer of joint compound around the hole. Place your patch into the hole. Using a putty knife, work the paper edge down into the compound. Feather the edges of the compound and allow it to dry. Sand lightly with a fine-grit sandpaper and apply a second layer of joint compound to finish the repair.

PATCH LARGE DRYWALL HOLES (6" TO 12")

Step 1: Square Off the Hole  

Use a keyhole saw to form the hole into a square or a rectangle. Holes up to 12'' require a slightly different repair that provides more support than smaller holes.

Step 2: Create a Patch Larger Than the Hole  

Cut a piece of drywall that's 2'' larger than the hole to be repaired. Using a drill, create two small holes through this piece of board, feed some string through and tie both ends of the string to a stick (tie in the middle). Allow for about 8" of string between the board and the stick. The "stick side" of the board will be the front. The stick will be used to hold the patch in place. By twisting the stick, it applies pressure to the rear of the board to steady it in the hole.

Step 3: Place the Patch  

Place the patch by first applying a smooth coat of cement adhesive around the edges of the piece of wallboard material. Insert the patch into the hole and position it so the cement adhesive firmly grips the solid area around the rear of the hole. Turn the stick clockwise, twisting the string and increasing pressure against the patch board at the rear of the hole. This will hold the board firmly in place until the cement adhesive dries.

Helpful Tip

To make it easier to insert the wallboard material through the hole, be sure to hold it at an angle.


Step 4: Fill the Hole  

Allow the cement adhesive to thoroughly dry then fill in the area with joint compound. Smooth out the area then let the patch dry thoroughly.


Helpful Tip

You may need to apply two or three layers of joint compound to build up the patched area. Always allow each layer to dry before applying another.

Let the stick and string remain where they are during the patching process. You can remove both just before the material dries.

Step 5: Sand and Paint  

Make sure the area is completely dry, then sand off any high spots using fine-grit sandpaper and sanding block. Apply a coat of EasyCare® Ultra Premium Interior Paint in any finish you choose.

REPAIR LARGE DRYWALL HOLES (MORE THAN 12")

Step 1: Make a Brace  

Create a support brace to hold a patch securely while you put it in place, if you have really large drywall damage. Use a circular saw or other type of saw, cut two pieces of 2x4 to a length about 8'' longer than the diameter of the hole. These will be used to form your support brace.


Step 2: Affix the Brace  

Apply cement adhesive to one piece of 2x4 at each end and then insert it into the hole so that the adhesive will adhere to the inside of the wall. Hold it in place and use a piece of heavy cord to tie it to the other piece of 2x4. Allow both 2x4 pieces to remain tied in this position for about an hour or until the cement adhesive on the "inside" part of the brace is fully dry.

Next, untie the cord and remove the supporting piece of 2x4 that you placed on the front side of the wallboard. The cement adhesive will hold the inside piece of 2x4 firmly in position, providing a support brace for the wall patch.

Step 3: Install Patch  

Cut a drywall patch to the exact dimensions of the sawed-out area using a power saw or keyhole saw. The patch will be slightly smaller than the hole itself, but be sure to cut it to fit as tightly as possible.

Apply cement adhesive to the back of the patch and on the support brace inside the wall, then place the patch into position in the hole.

Step 4: Apply Drywall Tape and Joint Compound  

Step 5: Sand the Surface  

Make sure the area has completely dried, and then use a regular sanding block and a piece of fine sandpaper to sand away any high areas on the patched surface.


Step 6: Prime the Drywall  

Apply a primer coat to prepare the wall for painting.

Step 7: Paint the Wall  

Use the same color paint to touch up or choose a new color for your wall.

You're done! Your walls look brand new again.

Source : projects.truevalue.com

How To Build a Dry-Stack Wall



How To Build a Dry-Stack Wall

Dry-stacked or dry-laid masonry needs no mortar. you do not want special instrumentality, super strength, or a fat checking account. If you'll handle a shovel, wield a hammer, use grade, and elevate tiny stones; and if you are needing to pay your time operating together with your hands outdoors, stonescaping is for you.

HOW TO BUILD A PLANNING

As in any building project, a bit little bit of designing and organizing can create your work easier. Before starting your wall, visualize or sketch the finished structure in its close landscape. Your land might have Associate in Nursing existing bank or a natural berm. If it does not, you will need to make a berm by commercialism soil. live the world of your wall to see it's length and height.


HOW MUCH STONE DO I NEED?

Wall stone comes in numerous sizes and thickness. If the wall is to be no over two foot. high, you'll use smaller thin-cut stone to create with. Larger walls need larger stone for a lot of stability.

 Let's say that your wall are going to be sixty foot. long and a pair of foot. high. 1st calculate the world of the face of the wall: 60' x 2' = one hundred twenty sq. ft. of face. As a general rule, one ton of thin-cut rock can yield roughly thirty sq. ft. of face. therefore your calculations indicate that you just can want regarding four plenty of stone.

DRY-STACK WALL

TOOLS AND MATERIALS needed


  • Heavy Hammer
  • 3 ft. Level
  • Pick and Shovel
  • Selected Stone
  • Backfill Materials

HOW TO BEGIN

Using a hose or rope, lay out the form of wall that you just attempt to build. With a flat shovel, dig a trench regarding 4-inches deep and regarding 12-inches wide (or as wide as your widest stone) on the bottom of your slope at the planned location for the wall.

NO MORTAR

Use the extent to create certain that the ditch is level in each directions. If very cheap of the wall rises up a slope, you'll stair-step the ditch in level steps of four to six inches. No footing is needed for a dry-stack wall since there's no mortar used.

 Place giant stones on very cheap layer to offer the wall an honest foundation. Lay the stones flat with the most effective wanting, straightest face within the front. As you stack the wall, use the extent to visualize to envision that your wall has level horizontal courses. once every course is finished, fill within the voids and irregularities behind the wall with dirt or fine gravel and compact it as you go.

 Place stones so that they match tightly along for strength and look. As you build, try and avoid continuous horizontal and vertical joints by breaking them up with larger or smaller stones. Use tiny "chinking" stones to fill within the tiny voids left by larger stones. a small batter on the wall can add stability.

 Save some of the larger flat items of stone to finish off the highest of the wall.

 Source : http://www.markhamlandscape.com

Dry Stone Walls


Dry-stone walls

If you want to build yourself a house in the city, brick, steel, glass, and wood are generally the best materials to use. But what if you're in the middle of the countryside and you want to make a simple wall to keep animals in a field? You could use bricks, but they look unattractive and unnatural in rural landscapes. Not only that, they can work out really expensive when you lay them mile after mile. And what if you change your mind about where you want the wall to be, as farmers often do? Knocking down bricks locked together with mortar isn't at all easy. Wouldn't it be good if there were a simpler kind of wall you could make? Well, there is! It's called a dry-stone wall because, unlike a brick wall, it's made by stacking stones without (wet) mortar to hold them together. Dry-stone walls are strong and attractive and can last hundreds of years. But if you decide you don't like them, you can just take them down and build them up again somewhere else. Let's take a closer look at how they work!

What's the difference between brick walls and dry stone walls?


 A brick wall is made from regular stacks of identically shaped blocks locked together with a kind of gritty adhesive called mortar. A dry-stone wall is much more natural: it's little more than a vertical stack of stones laid together slowly and carefully so they lock together under their own weight. Brick walls need mortar to hold them up because they often reach high in the air (as part of a building, for example). Dry-stone walls, on the other hand, are used mainly for fencing in animals or marking out the edges of a garden, so they seldom need to go higher than 1–1.5 meters (3.5–5 ft). By choosing the stones carefully and packing them tightly together with very thoughtful design, you can make a really strong structure that's completely self-supporting. Apart from looking great, it will provide excellent shelter for livestock and habitats for rock plants (such as mosses and lichens) and the insects they support.

How to build a dry-stone wall

To make a dry-stone wall, you first clear and level the ground to prepare the foundations. Then you sort out your stones into different sizes, typically with piles of large, medium, and small stones. Next you mark out the area where you'll be building your wall—with taut lines of string, by drawing chalk lines on the ground, using wooden stakes, or in some other way. Your wall can be no wider than the longest stones you have, so you'll need to check your pile of material to see what's available before marking out.

 Once you've marked the area for your wall, you simply pile the stones up in flat layers. Each layer consists of tightly packed stones with a mixture of a few large stones (called tie-stones) running lengthwise into the wall (that is, with their longest edge spanning the width of the wall) and lots more smaller stones packed in between them. You need to leave as few gaps as possible, so the stones in each layer should look almost as tightly interconnected as jigsaw pieces when you're laying them out. Take time to choose and place your stones carefully: dry-stone walls take a very long time to build, if you do it properly, and it's time that's well spent.

 Much like building a brick wall, you finish off a substantial part of each horizontal layer before moving up to the next one. To keep your wall sturdy, it's important to arrange large stones in one layer so they bridge the gaps in the layer below, and vice-versa. Sometimes this is referred to as building "two over one and one over two": you need to make sure one stone covers two (or two stones cover one) in the layer below. In other words, you have to ensure that the gaps in successive layers don't line up or you'll create "faultlines" where your wall will be much more likely to collapse. Another important factor also helps to ensure stability: the lower layers of a wall are always slightly wider than the upper ones so the wall tapers inward slightly as it rises. If your wall gets wider as you go up, there's something wrong!


When you reach the height you want, you can put more flat and heavy stones on top to finish the wall off. Usually, wall-builders arrange flat stones on their ends along the top both to give a wall an attractive finished appearance and to stop the top stones falling or being knocked away. The upper stones are referred to as the capstones or topstones, "buck and doe," or "cock and hen." Usually, different craftsmen have their own individual ways of topping a wall; it's very much a matter of personal style and preference.

Local materials and styles


 One of the best things about dry-stone walls is that they're usually built from local stones. Using materials made locally is better for the environment (energy isn't wasted transporting heavy building materials over long distances). It also helps places to retain their distinctive character and charm. Dry-stone walls built in one place may look very different from those built elsewhere, simply because the stones are a different shape, size, or color. In some places, the natural stones are like small cobbles and dry-stone walls reflect this. Elsewhere, the stones may be chipped from rocks in local quarries to make bigger and squarer pieces.


Different wallers build in different styles—sometimes to "sign" their work and sometimes for other reasons. Walls built up hills often use a style where the stones are packed in at angles so their weight (leaning against the direction of the incline) prevents the structure from collapsing. Walls designed for livestock often have a protruding layer of stones near the top that helps to stop sheep or deer from jumping over. In the part of Dorset, England where I live, the wallers say they can recognize one another's style at a glance. You can certainly see a huge variety in walling styles as you walk around the landscape comparing one wall to another. Something else that's very evident is the sense that dry-stone walls are a living feature of the landscape: for one reason or another (through ground movement, strong winds and rain, or livestock huddling against them for shelter), walls collapse from time to time and have to be rebuilt. Look closely at the walls in a particular area and you'll find places where stones that have been in place for hundreds of years are just about to fall down; right next to them, you'll find stones that have been built up again in the last few days, weeks, months, or even years. It's as though the walls themselves are alive, constantly renewing themselves. It's fascinating stuff! We should count ourselves very lucky that people keep these traditional rural crafts going.

Advantages and disadvantages

Pros
  • Visually attractive, hand-made appearance.
  • Help to perpetuate traditional crafts.
  • Reflect local character with local materials and better for the environment (need no transportation).
  • Excellent habitat for mosses, lichens, and the wider ecosystem.
  • Relatively easy to move or remove.
  • Can be recycled and reused any number of times, very easily.
  • Last forever (in theory). Unlike with a brick wall, there's no mortar to crack and fall apart.

Cons
  • Slow, laborious, and expensive to build (particularly because of high labor cost).
  • Tend to collapse if poorly built.
  • Difficult to build if you don't have a ready supply of stone nearby.
  • Unsuitable for high walls or buildings.
  • Relatively wide, with a bigger land-take than a simple barbed-wire fence or brick wall, though not as wide as a hedge.
Source : http://www.explainthatstuff.com